HOLY HILLS BATMAN!
Well I knew that the first day was one of the most intense climbs but man I should have trained more. (Laughs nervously). Today was a gorgeous and exhausting walk from St. Jean Pied de Port to Orisson. Although it’s only 5 miles, it packs a punch with an elevation gain of over 2,500 feet.
For the majority of the way, it is straight up hill. And I’m not talking like Florida “hills”, I mean the side of a mountain hill. Well I guess it is the Pyrenees after all. Some of the trail is paved and follows a narrow road and some is a little less packed.
For the majority of the way today I walked a bit and rested a bit. A few times I took off my pack and sat down on the side of the mountain to gaze at the sheep, watch some donkeys and even met a friendly cow.
I met a lot of really friendly people today. I guess that’s the bonus of being the slow one is everyone passes you. So I got to have a lot of really great chats with some interesting folks from all over the world. I also walked alone a lot which was peaceful.
Today’s walk took me a little longer than expected but I made it in about 3.5 hours. The Albergue is incredible. I’m staying at the Refuge Orisson and highly recommend it. Most people cross the Pyrenees on day 1 and head straight to Roncesvalles. Which if you do all in one is approximately 15 miles and 5,000 feet elevation gain. The idea of breaking it up into two days is becoming pretty common with Orisson being the destination. Not only does it have a full restaurant (so great place to stop for lunch) it also has a spectacular view.
Once I arrived I had some great lunch, wine, and some fresh sheep cheese with blackberry jam. I took a shower with a five minute coin that limited my use of water, washed my clothes in the sink, and had an incredible traditional Basque family dinner.
Tomorrow will be the remaining half of the Pyrenees - 10 miles with 2,000 feet elevation gain and then a steep drop into Roncesvalles. Wish me luck!
Tonight, it’s time for bed. As I lay on the top bunk (again) and listen to the chorus of snoring peregrinos I’m quickly reminded that I left my earplugs at the bottom of my pack. Guess I’ll just have to let them serenade me to sleep.
Buen Camino!
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